The annotated budak

Snaked trysts

Two banded file snakes were fucking on the flat off the northern rim of Pulau Semakau, where the perimeter bund of a bulging landfill meets a wall of artificially planted mangroves, one evening when their union was interrupted by a gaggle of explorers who stalked and stumbled over the shore, torch in hand and hopes in thrall to a day of late tidings. The male, who kept his coils in a tight spiral around the nether regions of his mate, was a clean-living fellow, though his stripes were rough on the edges and had little of the sheen of a recently moulted individual. The lady, to her credit, was a tramp who had allowed her hide to hang loose and become a habitat for green filaments.

A snake at sea but confined, it seems, to the zone below the pools of bockadams and before the reefs of true sea serpents, Acrochordus granulatus may venture, and even thrive, in freshwater reservoirs via tidal gates or estuarine channels. Locally, they may be encountered on the fringes of untamed islets such as Pulau Sekudu or the skirted slopes and seagrass beds of Pulau Semakau, where their glum and sluggish disposition belie an ability to intercept, constrict and swallow good-sized gobioids and goatfish, which let their guard down before the jaws of a reptile whose low metabolic rate allows it to remain submerged and still for long periods. As with other squamates, the males wield paired hemipenes that are extruded from a cloaca at the base of a surprisingly short tail. With his lower torso suitably entwined around the female, the male everts one of his hemiphines, which latches onto the inner walls of his mate to facilitate prolonged coitus while the unused hemi-organ swings freely. This physical bond probably accounted for the reluctance of the pair to break loose and cut short their consummation, even though they failed to consult each other on which direction to take in sidestepping the spotlight.  

Keen eyes are not an asset for file snakes, which hunt in murky pools and plunge their heads into dim lairs in search of demersal prey. Yellow-lipped sea kraits, on the other hand, swim in clear waters, using their paddle-like tails to propel themselve through seaweed and benthic growth as they pursue eels and other fish. For all the power of their bite, these elapids are vulnerable to predators such as sea eagles, sharks and even swimming crabs – their eyes are hence attuned to detecting motion, be it by food or foe and, as if to make up for an anatomical chink in their armour, their tails have evolved photoreceptors, prototypic eyes as it were, that tell the animal, during attempts at taking cover, if its rear end remains in sight and at risk of flightful talons. Snakes at sea, it seems, still slither with secrets that suffer not the soft stabs of intertidal missions at shining a harsh, hollow light at beasts we love to hate and never hope to know.

High power

Squirrels are more often heard than seen. Bird-like calls of 'chewit-chewit' pierce the understorey of forests in which saplings and lianas grow at a density that allows slender squirrels to leap between vine and branch without setting foot on the ground. Their larger cousins, Callosciurus notatus, are no less chatty, punctuating their foraging with shrill chirps and violent swipes of a proud, plush tail. The rodents, for all their justifiable wariness of primates that have ditched the high ground of a treesome life, can be remarkably tolerant of humans when they are busy stripping bark off trees, rooting in the foliage for fruit and insects, or engaged in death-defying pursuits of rivals or mates that involve ridiculous dashes, unmeasured leaps and blinding tumbles through secondary growth and mangrove corridors, accompanied by shrill oaths delivered with staccato fury.

Squirrels don't usually sit and stare, but when they do, few casual visitors to local parks and reserves suffer from the intrusion of arboreal mammals into their line of foresight or endure the disruption of small, warm bodies to their constitutional subroutines. But there was no escaping the high power of a pair of liquid globes a mere head above eye level by a trail through swampy backwaters overrun by sun skinks and skimming dragonflies. The animal's compact size and lack of an obvious streak on each flank suggested Sundasciurus tenuis, but the bushy tail and heavy build demurred. It took a few moments of misplaced focus for a second, rather larger, squirrel to become evident, perched on a limb that had been sawn off and cauterised to prevent the forest from attacking civilised intruders. Caught flat-footed perhaps as they scrounged by the path, the pair had taken flight in subterfuge, the subadult mimicking its parent or heeding a call to halt. It was, possibly, a nod to caution by the older beast on behalf of an offspring that is yet to earn its stripes and has not mastered the art of flinging its buff and brown frame through the undercanopy without missing a step or making a monkey out of a tribe that has never fallen to the level of naked apes.

Chained reactions

Only golfers and other idle souls have the wherewithal to spend the latter half of a cloudy day on the green by MacRitchie Reservoir, where men in loud orange vests labour by the banks to remove bog moss before returning to base in a municipal bathtub of a boat. A skimpy path runs between the singular holes and a shallow basin that supports an alien menagerie: cichlids from Africa, Central and South America, Malayan cyprinids, North American terrapins and freshwater clams that run riot in artificial lakes, though few venture into the streams that have survived a century of unsustainable croppings. Parts of this track, which skirts with visible menace the terrain of a distant club, are bisected by a low wall of fountain grass, an ornamental herb with invasive potential but whose habitus offers a refuge for orbweavers, which occupy nearly every gap between the stalks and many other, smaller, planes of existence in a hedge of brown and purple blades.

The dominant spider on this well-brushed fringe appears to be Argiope catenulata, one of five local members of a genus that spins vertical traps, to which they add the finishing touch of dense zigzags made from aciniform silk, a tough, non-sticky fibre also used to wrap eggcases and struggling insects. This species, which has been recorded from swampy fields in open country, is distinguished by a broad, oval opistosoma marked by an irregular, tapering, dorsal stripe that overlays three bands of variable colour –  a chained or catenulate combination said to meld with the silvery patterns of the animal's snare. In habit, though not in choice of habitat, Argiope catenulata deviates little from its kin, which variously occupy mangroves, scrubland and forest margins. The females, which hang head down on hubs marred by unruly gusts, blundering dragonflies or difficult prey, respond to disturbance by arching their bodies and, if pressed, shaking the web with arresting vigour, using their bulky abdomens as counterweights for a rhythm that may help to throw off the senses of wasps and warblers. Harassed further, the spider may slip to the other side of the web or drop into the undergrowth, where she will sit out the disruption to her routine before pulling herself back up to face a parlour of tiny mates and return the blow of pressures that refuse to let up on this shore of exposed and endangered waters.

A berried passion

Keppel Island, which serves as a handy launchpad to the southern reefs, is now linked to the mainland by a sleek plank, on which privileged drivers and perplexed cabbies coast toward a club of fine dining and fancy yachts. The restaurants overlook a small marina where some degree of fouling is tolerated, as least on the pontoons and seawalls which suffer the stain of corals, gorgonians and sea anemones, and thus lure a scoundrous horde of fish that run rings around the boats and refuse to pay for their board. Behind the establishment runs a jogging track, by which manicured shrubbery obscures the native vegetation of an islet that provided refuge to green pigeons and guarded the passage through the dragon's gate into the docks of what used to be called New Harbour.

The island's former name, which invited confusion with namesakes further to the southwest, is admirably haunting, however. One account of its origin tells of an encounter between a domiciled fisherman and a decapod he had snared, a brachyuran of colossal proportions with whom he struck up a dubious acquaintance. This friendship came with strange benefits, including nocturnal companionship and, presumably, intimate strokes by the creature's maxillipeds and shell-shocked aftermaths. The crustacean was strangely non-plussed by its bedmate's marital status, an oversight that led to its downfall in the hands of a jealous wife, who reduced her rival to dismembered portions and invited her kin to a seafood feast. Thanks to unsanitary food handling or/and the dying curse of a crabby end, the villagers couldn't quite swallow their meal and soon died in loco motion. Upon returning to find his lover half-digested and his relatives well-disposed of, the fisherman was said to have mourned his leggy catch more than his legal spouse, and in the ways of nameless myths, "news of the crab's death spread rapidly across the ocean bed and piscatorial demolition parties were organised" to assail the island and render it unfit for habitation. The moral of the lesson, it seems, is that a prized catch can lead to a ménage with possessive spirits and wild affairs with no exit clawses.